Vintage city guide

The best high tea in Budapest: Herend afternoon tea at the Four Seasons Hotel

There are two types of people — those who like afternoon tea and those who don’t.

Being an obsessive foodie (and although I find the term painfully cringe-worthy), there is no need to say I belong to the first group. Yes, I love my food. And yes, I have a sweet tooth too. But to be honest, that is not all about it.

To me, there is something vaguely ritual about the whole tea-time experience: the idea of dressing in your best best to share good food and a lovely conversation with someone you appreciate; the endless succession of spongy scones, coated in a decadent foam of jam and custard, immaculately presented in the finest china. Afternoon tea represents the luxury of quality time — winding down from our usual fast-pace everyday routine.

As soon as we decided to visit Budapest last month, we booked the Herend Afternoon Tea experience at the Four Seasons Hotel as a birthday present for me. We’d had a nice time there the previous Summer and were looking to upgrade the game. And guys, I am so glad we did!

Four Seasons is located a the Gresham Palace, a 1906 Art Nouveau building which offers enviable views over the Széchenyi Chain Bridge and the Danube. The palace itself is a true national treasure and it is worth a visit, even if you only go for a coffee. But let’s talk about Herend Tea.

five stars hotel tea in budapest — Me happily standing in the lobby after all the delicious food

Afternoon Tea is served every day from 15.00 to 18.00 in the hotel lobby and tea lounge, where you can listen to a live piano concert. An elegant Herend porcelain table is set with bountiful bites and a cup of Gresham Tea, setting the ultimate mood for an afternoon at the Gresham Palace. The china service is one of the most beautiful sets I have ever seen in real life, decorated with dainty colours and floral details. Next time, I would love to purchase a set for our personal collection (the hotel offers a specialized porcelain boutique for customers).

The tea selection includes white Yea Long, superior Oolong, Finest Shizuoka Sencha, Superior Gyokuro, Golden Assam, Earl Grey, Yunnan Black Mao Feng and Massala among others. If you are a tea lover, you can’t miss the chance to taste some of their available range (when in Budapest, I enjoy paying them a daily visit just for a cup of tea and to rest from shopping and city sighting).

But the absolute winner here is food. Afternoon tea is served both with a sweet and savoury offer: from Tramezzini (a bold smoked trout, mustard and dill sauce bite) to their absolutely delicious triple chocolate cake, everything was simply divine. My personal favourite? Their confit duck sandwich is to die for (and I really mean it, some days the craving is still HARD, let me tell you. Like waking-up-at-three-in-the-morning-wih-a-craving kind of hard).

Not only the food quality is fantastic, but also the quantity is very generous: Sebastian and I are both good eaters, and even so we barely managed to try every delicious piece. (As you can see in the photos, I was wearing a flowy dress that day. Thank heavens I did so: none of my trousers would have fitted afterward comfortably…)

The staff working there is truly kind and well-mannered and they would explain to you everything about the different types of snacks and drinks provided, assisting you at all times.

Finally, the price for the afternoon service is around twenty euros per person, which can be slightly increased if you choose to enhance the experience with a cheeky glass of Kreinbacher Sparkling Wine or Veuve Cliquot Rosé N.V. (and c’mon, we all enjoy the occasional champagne glass, right? Actually, every meal would be better with some champagne, if you ask me). But overall, the price-quality relationship is impressive all things considered. Whether you are celebrating a special occasion or just enjoying your city break, I would recommend the experience to anyone.

Are you into high tea? What is your favourite afternoon tea experience so far?

(Disclaimer: To be crystal clear here, this post is not sponsored in any way. We paid for the whole event and this post shows my honest opinion as a customer strictly.)

September 17, 2019September 17, 2019

Allegra Caro23 Comments

What to do in Budapest: Designer shopping at Andrassy Avenue

In the many years we’ve been together, Sebastian and I have started a bunch of family traditions: there is the one about the Christmas Day pancakes extravaganza and the one with my youngest sister staying with us for holiday every Summer. Three years ago, we visited Budapest for my birthday and we enjoyed the experience so much, it became a tradition of its own automatically.

Usually, we take the chance to go for a long city break, spending about three-four days in Budapest. In case you are not familiar with the Hungarian capital and its many charms, let me tell you it is worth a visit — the food is delicious, with a plethora of high-end, Nouvelle cuisine, and traditional restaurants to choose from, and don’t even make me start about the beauty of the urban landscape.

But the thing is, you can already read about it all out there, since there is plenty of information online. Instead of telling you how much I love the sunset by the Danube or writing another endless post about visiting Budapest Castle, I thought it would be much more interesting letting you know about other not well-known activities. Let’s talk shopping, for instance.

In Budapest, one of the best kept secrets is the quality and variety of the local shops: from luxury to vintage, and from handcrafted to the high street, you name it. Every year, I pay a visit to my favourite boutiques religiously, in search of one seasonal bargain or two and the city never disappoints.

Of course, this year was no exception. On the second day of our trip, we had a late breakfast at Muvesz Kavehaz in the opera district, and then proceeded to go for some window shopping at Andrassy Avenue — hello, did someone say shopping awesomeness?

Unfortunately, the Gucci and Burberry shops close on Sundays but LV, Pinko, and Michael Kors open to the public on the weekends. By mid-August many of them were still holding seasonal sales (now, that’s what I call a birthday present), which was the perfect excuse to splurge on something nice. Who can say no to a beautiful designer bag on sale, after all?

At the time, I was looking for a good quality leather bag in burgundy or wine to complete my Autumn collection so, as soon as I entered Michel Kors and saw this beauty, I was sold to it (do not worry: there is a proper bag review coming your way). I asked to the very nice shop assistant to let me try it and then I knew it was the one. Sebastian, on the other hand, said it was quite obvious the bag was going home with me based on the way I was holding it and mumbling “My Precious!”, which totally sounds like me to be fair…

Once we left the store, we had a nice long walk all through the neighbourhood. Sadly, the Opera House was closed due to some renovation works on the façade, so we skipped the planned visit and enjoyed the rest of our morning wandering around. And let me tell you that, every single time, we are amazed on how gentle and warm are people around the luxury district, specially while comparing with more popular destinations like Paris: we can only say good things about the working staff in most shops, who are really helpful and welcoming. Definitely, Andrassy Avenue does deserve a visit while in Budapest.

Shortly afterwards, we left the district for our booked tea time appointment at the Four Seasons Hotel but that is another story and shall be told another time…

Have you ever visited Budapest?

If so, what are your favourite shopping locations?

Dress: Poema (sold out, skirt version here)

Shoes: Zara (old, similar at Gianvito Rossi)

Bobby pins: Anthropologie (sold out in their website, some stock here)

Other accesories: Off brand

September 11, 2019September 12, 2019

Allegra Caro12 Comments

Five awesome things to do in Bucharest

So, you finally decided it is time to take those well-deserved days off and have a little city break. In the meantime, you read something on the internet about the top five trendy European destinations and got really excited about the idea of trying something new. Then, you thought Bucharest sounds exotic enough and managed to book inexpensive flight tickets and accommodation.

(Congratulations! Let me tell you something: you are about to have a great holiday!)

But now you feel a bit insecure about what to do once you are in there. After all, no one you know visited Romania. And well, to be completely honest you are starting to panic a bit. Hey, it is totally fine. I have been there too.

When I first arrived in Bucharest in September 2013 I had no idea what the hell I was doing — I had no friends, I didn’t speak the language at all, and information about the city was very scarce back then. (For a while, I was running around like a chicken with its head cut off.) Even so, I managed to put my %”$! together, totally fell in love with the city, and stayed for three years.

Luckily for you, it is 2019 now and Bucharest is becoming better known as time goes by.

Actually, I truly believe Bucharest is the new European capital of cool.

In case you are visiting soon and looking for some advice for a short relaxing city break, these are five awesome things to do in Bucharest.

1. Rediscovering Food

Maybe you don’t know about this yet but Bucharest is a paradise for foodies. And I am not exaggerating here — when I visited earlier this month, I gained three pounds in a single weekend…

The city is crammed with little coffee shops and restaurants where you can order anything from Romanian dishes to Nouvelle cuisine. Also, most places are of great value compared with other European destinations.

Thesee are a few of my favourite places:

Highlife

This restaurant definitely holds a special place in my heart, since it is the spot where Sebastian proposed on August the 18th, 2014. Everything is delicious there: the salmon, the filet mignon with green pepper sauce, the raspberries sauce duck… But oh my, if you ever go there, please don’t miss the opportunity to taste the triple chocolate cake. It is OMG! Like, I-died-and-went-to-Heaven kind of awesome.

2. Le Boutique du Pain

Are you into brunch? (I mean c’mon, who isn’t these days?) Then give Le Boutique du Pain a go. They offer a wide variety of sweet and salty options. Everything from benedict eggs to waffles, including a daily menu you cannot miss.

3. Stadio

I will say one word only — Papanași. They offer a delicious deconstructed version with a black and white chocolate dip to die for. (Seriously guys, I now dream of stealing the recipe. I am actually plotting an implausible as well as complicated Ocean’s Eleven style plan that might or might not send me to send me to jail… But I will keep you updated.) But whatever, just don’t think it twice and go.

2. Visiting the most beautiful bookstore in Europe

And once more, I am not exaggerating here. A quick Pinterest research will show you how stunning this place is. It doesn’t matter if you are a bookworm, the building is impressive enough to enjoy the visit. If you are a reader, also please consider they actually have a wide foreign languages section too and a nice little coffee shop in the last floor where you can actually sit and read.

3. Going on a vintage and antiques shopping spree

To me, shopping during the holidays never gets old. But I’d rather go hunting for antiques than exploring the same boring high street shops you can find in any other city. In this sense, the Romanian capital is absolutely amazing.

One of my favourite places is located in the 11^th of Doamnei street. The building used to be an university library but nowadays it holds the main antiques and handmade market. In there, you will find anything you can possibly imagine: old pictures and postcards, porcelain dolls, furniture, Soviet medals, and old passports. I never manage to spend less than one hour there, sniffing for bargains as a bloodhound.

If you are more into second-hand, just be attentive when you walk around. In no time, you will realize the city is full of little stores specialized in used goods, vintage and even second-hand designer items. Now, since the prices are very inexpensive when compared to other countries, be prepared for a proper loot (aye, captain!).

4. Exploring Little Paris

I have already mentioned the undeniable Parisian resemblance before.

In order to see it with your own eyes, take some time to peacefully wander through Victoriei area and discovering the Romanian Atheneum (which you can visit by simply booking a ticket and whose breathtaking hall was inspired by the Opera Garnier palace), the National Bank building, the National History Museum and many others. You can also visit the beautiful Passage Villacrosse, a lovely gallery built the Parisian style and full of nice little terraces where you can sit and smoke a Turkish pipe.

5. Having afternoon tea at the Grand Hotel Continental

Whether you make a proper stop for afternoon tea or simply to rest a bit, please make a stop at Continental Hotel. It is one of my favourite places to chill after a long shopping day.

And this was another installment of the Vintage Guide series.

I truly hope you enjoyed it.

Now, if you excuse me, I am going to keep plotting how to steal that legendary Papanași recipe. Please, pray for me and call a lawyer…

February 22, 2019February 22, 2019

Allegra Caro8 Comments

The Vintage Guide: Madrid city break

I have got a confession to make: I HATE city break guides.

Yes, I know. I can hear your thoughts from here – why in the name of God are you writing one then, huh?

Well, the point is I hate the kind of 48 hours city guides crammed with tourist traps and famous over-priced restaurants that feel more like a check-list marathon than a holiday. You know what I am speaking about, right? I mean the type you could easily think is a Lonely Planet appendix, and whose writer has rarely spent more than the aforementioned 48 hours in the given city, which makes the content… well… mostly superficial, to be honest.

Now, I am not suggesting you should be a total native to write a city guide at all, but I do believe visiting at least a bunch of times can provide you with a bit more of perspective when you are trying to provide assistance to others. As a blogs reader myself, it is not unusual for me to spend a few hours looking for content on the cities I am visiting before a weekend abroad. However, more frequently than not I only get disappointed by the tips I find.

Last month, I was searching for some cool recommendations for Madrid, a city I have visited quite a lot already but which I was expecting to wander around like a native for a change. All I could find nevertheless was classic basic advice like: visit El Prado, the city center street food markets and Gran Vía… No offense intended, but I think most writers could do better with a bit of will AND research.

So after visiting Madrid myself (and quite a bunch of times, as mentioned before) I thought I could share some favourites of mine: not the sort of tips you would get from most guides, but more like a personal approach on what to do if you wish to avoid the check-list marathon style and simply enjoy a couple of days living like a local. So if you are here looking for basics about what to see in Madrid, maybe you should keep looking, sorry. Instead, these are my favourite tips to enjoy the charming vintage vibes Madrid can offer.

My favourite places to eat in Madrid

I do not consider myself a foodie, but I do like my food. So obviously, this is one of the top targets on my priority list when travelling. People will tell you Spanish food is wonderful (and in all honesty, it is) but you do not need to spend a small fortune on a five forks Michelin Guide restaurant to enjoy. So where do I enjoy my meals when in Madrid?

Tea time – Being a teatime and general snacks lover, it is not rare for me to try different tea rooms when visiting a new city. My favourite place in Madrid used to be The Ritz, but this year it is closed due to renovation works. In exchange, I recently discovered Le salon des Fleurs, a little tea room and flowers shop which offers the most tempting cake you can wish for. In my last trip, I tasted their homemade buttercream violets sponge cake and I can tell you it was delicious. Also, their shop is absolutely gorgeous, and a very grammable place if you ask me. If you have a craving for churros, please visit Maestro Churrero, you will want to come back.

International couisine restaurants – Many people are only interested to try the national couisine when travelling, and it is very understandable. However, I believe if the food is good, there is no reason to choose.

Being a Spaniard myself, I rarely take the chance to eat Spanish food when visiting Madrid, but I prefer to take advantage of the high-quality international offer. In my last trip, I discovered a couple of new fantastic places. Ginza is an authentic Japanese restaurant at the national congress neighborhood whose sushi Bentos are to die for and whose prices are truly reasonable. Greek and Shop has got both a wonderful Greek shop and restaurant in their little place at Malasaña neighborhood, all the food is homemade and they offer a delicious daily fixed menu for about 8 euros. If you are all about Brazilian food, you can visit Tapioca Chill in La Latina (do yourself a favor and order some coxinhas as a starter!) Do you fancy some Mexican? The tacos at Slow Mex are to die for!

My favourites places to shop in Madrid

If you are into fashion, Madrid has got a lot to offer. My personal favourites are vintage shops, but they are not the only ones. When having a walk at the golden mile in Serrano, I always make a stop at Guantes Varadé: a wonderful artisan shop based on gloves manufacture – you only understand what “to fit like a glove” really means when you try one of their pairs (no pun intended). Of course, I always take the chance to have a look at some of my Haute Couture places, including Miu Miu, Chanel, and Dolce and Gabbana, but they need no introduction, do they?

My favourite places to visit in Madrid

If you are around Serrano, as I previously said, there is a lot to see: block some time for window shopping and also to see the little Belle Epoque merry-go-round in the closest corner to Gucci shop.

If you have got a soft spot for art and history but you have already visited the biggest galleries, I can recommend a little and not that well-known museum: Museo Cerralbo was the official residence of the Marquise of Cerralbo (1845-1922) and keeps an exhaustive record of his private art collection. Also, the amazingly well-preserved nineteenth-century manor house deserves some credit by itself.

I would also definitely suggest to have a look to the Botanical Gardens (they are breathtaking during Autumn) and wander around El Paseo del Prado.

I promise you will not regret it.

Madrid is a city with a lot to offer not only to the ocassional visitor, but also to its locals. If you are spending some time there, please take the chance to wind down and enjoy its charms.

And have a very happy city break in Madrid!

December 12, 2018February 21, 2019

Allegra Caro26 Comments

Guía Vintage de Budapest

Si alguien me preguntase sobre el tema, probablemente le diría que Budapest es un poco como la típica chica de las películas de los 90: al principio nadie le hace caso, pero luego resulta ser la más interesante del instituto y termina por ligarse al capitán del equipo de fútbol.

La apodada “perla del Danubio” es la meca estival de miles de turistas cada año: europeos, japoneses y australianos peregrinan ordenadamente para maravillarse pero, por alguna razón poco clara, sus encantos siguen siendo desconocidos para la mayoría de españoles.

Hace poco, una amiga y yo atendíamos a nuestra cita semanal online –costumbre que seguimos desde que ella se mudó a Berlín y que con frecuencia aprovechamos para comparar nuestras impresiones como expatriadas delante de un cappuccino–, cuando salió el tema de las últimas vacaciones. Una de nuestras aficiones en común es la moda (y más específicamente la pasión por el vintage), por eso me sorprendió bastante cuando, tras anunciar que mis próximos planes incluían pasar cuatro días buscando tesoros en las tiendas húngaras, ella frunció un poco el ceño: “¿Pero no estuviste ya el año pasado?”, preguntó extrañada. De hecho, no sólo estuve el año pasado, sino también el otoño anterior y una vez más antes de eso; y todas y cada una de ellas he tenido que poner cuidado en no exceder el límite de la tarjeta y terminar el mes sustentándome de conservas y sopa en lata (sólo por si acaso, será mejor que nadie asome la nariz a mi alacena este mes…)

El caso es que, tras explicarle superficialmente una retahíla de razones por las que como amante de los años 40 y su memorabilia no podía dejar de visitar la ciudad, pensé que era una lástima no compartir algunos secretos sobre los sitios que nadie debería perderse, así que al volver a casa me puse manos a la obra. Si tú también eres un adicto a la segunda mano, éstas son las tiendas que no puedes dejar de visitar.

Las cinco mejores tiendas vintage de Budapest:

1. Ludovika Vintage

Esta tienda de dos pisos en el número 15 de Rumbach Sebestyén define su atmósfera como un híbrido entre Las vírgenes suicidas y Annie Hall. Lo que es indiscutible es que su oferta de ropa rescatada de los años 70 es muy difícil de superar. El local, limpio y ordenado, expone una variedad poco habitual de bolsos, zapatos y kimonos importados de Japón. Incluso si – como yo– no eres un gran fan de la década, el mimo que han dedicado a la selección del material no deja de impresionar. Ludovika está situada además en el sofisticado barrio judío, donde puedes tomarte tu tiempo en algunos de los mejores cafés y restaurantes en la ciudad.

2. Retrock

Para los acquicenses más trendy ésta es la favorita indiscutible. La boutique, situada en el populoso Anker köz, exhibe una muestra curiosa de ropa deportiva de los 90, vestidos de fiesta (no olvides pararte a echar un vistazo si eres fan de Alicia Silverstone y sus secuaces en Fuera de Onda) y accesorios de fantasía. Retrock cuenta también con el atractivo de ser probablemente la tienda más espaciosa del sector.

3. Szputnyik

¿Lo tuyo es mezclar lo viejo y lo nuevo? En Szputnyik encontrarás una miscelánea interesante de blusas de los 80 y los 90, accesorios y faldas de tul. Además, con algo de suerte, puede que también encuentres piezas de diseño en una de las dos tiendas que hay en la ciudad. Tras rebuscar durante unos 20 minutos en un baúl como el disciplinado perro sabueso que soy, me llevé a casa una estola prácticamente nueva de John Lewis y un colgante de Anna Sui por algo menos de 12 euros, así que recomiendo visitarla sin prisa y hacer una pausa para café si es necesario. A lo mejor sales de allí con un botín que no te esperas.

4. Alterego

La línea que divide las prendas thrifted o de segunda mano y el vintage es muy fina, y en Alterego las combinan a la perfección. Esta discreta boutique escondida en unas galerías de la céntrica calle Erzsébet tiene el mérito de contar casi exclusivamente con ropa y accesorios de marca: Vans, Prada, Converse, Tokyo Jane… La lista nunca se acaba. No recomendaría esta visita si estás buscando antigüedades o alta costura, pero si lo tuyo es el estilo urbanita no dejes de reservarle un hueco durante tu viaje.

5. Szimpla Design Shop

He dejado para el final la que es, probablemente, la mayor sorpresa de todas. Szimpla se encuentra en un bajo de la famosa calle Kazinczy y el local que ocupa es conocido por haber albergado un célebre pub underground; desde fuera, no ofrece un aspecto evocador: se trata de un local pequeño, en una esquina algo apretujada y polvorienta. Al descender por las estrechas escaleras, uno esperaría encontrarse con un sótano mohoso, sin mucho que ofrecer… y no podría estar más equivocado. Encontrarse de pronto en medio del maravilloso caos ordenado que reina allí es como transportarse directamente a un desván secreto repleto de tesoros variopintos: más de 50 diseñadores, antigüedades y ropa de segunda mano comparten espacio. Si como yo, tú también perteneces a esa especie de rara avis formada por los rastreadores de curiosidades, no puedes dejar de visitarla.

Hay, desde luego, muchos más establecimientos especializados que pueden resultar interesantes –por no hablar de los mercados de pulgas, que merecen su propio capítulo–, pero si necesitas priorizar tu tiempo o simplemente visitas la ciudad de escapada un par de días, el material más interesante lo encontrarás en alguna de estas tiendas con toda seguridad.

Recuerda, eso sí, no exceder el límite de tu tarjeta: no me responsabilizo de que termines el mes sustentándote de sopa en lata…

November 19, 2018February 21, 2019

Allegra Caro5 Comments